In the second installment of QUOC's City Guides, we head to Gent, Belgium — a city built on waterways where cycling runs deep in the culture. Our guide is Ruben Apers: a former professional cyclist who, through the highs and hardships of an elite career, rediscovered the freedom that first drew him to the bike. Today, Ruben channels that passion into inspiring others to ride as a Pas Normal Studios ‘Destination Everywhere’ Manager Europe — but no matter how far the road takes him, he always comes back to Gent. A city that feels like a small town, rides like a playground, and welcomes you like an old friend.

I started riding when I was 11 — my parents got me a secondhand bike and I just fell in love with it. It felt like freedom. Then as a junior I got fifth at the World Championships in the time trial, got scouted to Lotto's development team, and eventually made it onto Team Flanders–Baloise. But in 2019, everything changed. I had a really bad accident — we were sent off course and hit a car. The guy in front of me unfortunately passed away, and I was in intensive care for over a week.

Yeah it did, especially as later that year, one of my best friends also died in a bike race. It was rough. I think that's when my mindset about racing completely changed. I realised I actually just loved riding bikes for the freedom and peace it gave me. But I was also stubborn. People said I'd never ride again, never make it pro. I was like, f** you, I'll show you. I made it to the pro team, but honestly it was a pretty toxic environment. I wasn't happy. So I walked away and spent a year privateering at the likes of Tulsa Tough, and later started riding for the love of it; touring coast-to-coast with Pas Normal Studios Destination Everywhere and just working with brands I believed in.

I moved here when I was a pro, because I had friends who were racing bikes. Ever since then, I just keep coming back. I've lived here, gone to Australia, done a European racing tour, spent six months in America — and every time, I end up back in Gent. It always feels like the place where I feel safe and comfortable. I know every café, every restaurant, every street. It's this beautifully compact place — intimate, but still a proper city. You can walk or bike everywhere within five minutes.

You have Belgium, and then you have Gent — it's almost like a different country. Everyone is free-minded, open to new things, open to new people. There's a relaxed energy here that's hard to find elsewhere. People are just trying to enjoy their life, and that attitude extends to how the city feels — welcoming, unhurried, easy to be yourself.

It's incredibly bike-friendly. Where I live, I can start riding and not see a car for two hours. There are paths that run alongside the river, starting right in the city — you keep following the water and before you know it, you're in the middle of nowhere.

Most rides start next to the Schelde, a big river with a wide cycling path alongside it. It's the ideal meeting point — even if someone lives an hour away, you just meet at the Schelde. It's an iconic spot in Belgian cycling; a lot of pros train there and it's the gateway to the Flemish Ardennes. You ride about 25km along the river, fully flat, then you're into the area with all the steep climbs you see in the big races. You do some hill reps, choose your route, and ride back to Gent for a proper coffee.

There's a group called the Scheldepeloton. They leave every morning at 9:00 a.m. No ride leaders, no brand behind it. Just a bunch of people riding at about 40km an hour along the Schelde. You jump in, follow them towards the Flemish Ardennes, do your own thing, come back whenever you want. In summer they just keep going for hours — people drop off, others rejoin. It's not for beginners, but if you're a strong rider, it's an incredible way to experience the area.

Our gravel is more like single tracks and farm roads. We have these narrow paths — ‘veldwegen’ — that cut between farms and towns as shortcuts. It's a combination of gravel and cyclocross: technical, constantly changing direction. Not long, straight gravel sections like you have in Girona or America but just zigzags everywhere — you might do 100km but never be more than 20km from your starting point. In winter, the farm roads get so muddy that a mountain bike is genuinely faster than a gravel bike. In summer, gravel bikes work well. You can use any bike here, really.

South-west is a good bet. But if you head towards Aalst — east — there are really fun single tracks and forest sections, super technical cyclocross-style riding. The advantage of a gravel bike here is you can still ride the Schelde on tarmac to cover distance, then dip into the trails when you want.

Don't check the weather. Just go outside. It's so unpredictable — the weather can be fine in Gent, but if you ride towards the Ardennes, it could be full-on raining. Unless they predict 100% rain everywhere, just bring a rain jacket and go.

There are so many coffee places and small restaurants with great food to explore. My go-to is just walking around — the architecture is really old, it feels like you're walking through Hogwarts. You stop for coffee, duck into a vinyl store, find a spot for lunch. The city centre is so compact you're everywhere within a five-minute walk. No public transport needed, no stress. Just wandering, drinking, eating. It's a perfect weekend escape.

Book a hotel in the city centre. There's everything from affordable places to super chic spots, and you'll be within five minutes' walk of anything. The city centre sits within the triangle where two rivers merge — that's where Gent began, and it's still the heart of everything.

WAY Coffee — Ruben's go-to for a proper flat white

Bidon Coffee&Bicycle — A cycling café by the water with a beautiful terrace, loved by locals and cyclists alike.

Astro Boy — Small plates and sharing; a favourite for casual evenings with friends
Mémé Gusta — Traditional Flemish dishes with a rustic, homely feel.

Café 't Kanon — A wine-forward café in the oldest part of Gent with good small plates and a cool atmosphere.

Music Mania — A legendary vinyl record store, near the Vooruit cultural centre
Shelter — A fashionable clothing store whose shop manager also happens to be a cyclist
Slam Skate Shop — Ghent's core skate shop, where Ruben currently works as store manager.

Bataia — A high-end bike shop and café selling brands including QUOC, Pas Normal Studios and MAAP; a destination in its own right.